Doors and Lock Buying Guide
Selecting the right lock and making a solid decision on a door are just two of your key security concerns. Given the right tools, enough time, and nobody watching, a professional burglar can theoretically overcome anything you put in his path. But you can do a lot to discourage this kind of unwanted attention. The longer it takes to gain entry and the harder it looks, the less likely it is that an amateur or professional thief will make the effort.
Pay careful attention to your lock and entry door selection. Evaluate different materials, along with specific features and quality levels as you shop. But keep in mind that, to a significant extent, the construction of the opening, the way the door is installed in the frame, and the way the lock grips the jamb are probably more important.
Jimmying, picking, sawing, and drilling are some ways a burglar attacks an entryway. The most common, though, is a good, swift kick to the lock, aimed at breaking the bolt and knocking it off the door. The lock and door work together as a system to put the maximum number of obstacles in the way of potential intruders, whatever method they attempt. That system consists of the door itself (in manufacturer literature, it's often called the door panel), the frame, which is either steel or wood, the sill, and the lock(s), which should always have a deadbolt with at least a one-inch throw.
In most break-ins, it's unlikely that the door is going to break. It's more likely that the jamb will split at the lock and give way. Putting cripples (short pieces of wood measured to fit into spaces along each side of the door) between the wall studs and the jamb jack stud will thwart any attempts to use a jack to pry the jambs apart. Steel reinforcement plates at each hardware point, secured to the jamb jack stud, protect against kicks aimed at breaking out the jamb. Security strike plates, especially important with wooden door frames, reinforce the door frame to protect against kicks and other forces applied to vulnerable sections. Visibility around the door is another major concern. The door, and the walkway to it, should be well-lit. You may want to research the kind of outdoor lighting you should have and where it's focused. Trees and shrubbery should not obscure the door.
If you have questions about your particular security needs, ask an expert. Many police departments have homeowner advisory programs. Locksmiths and door retailers are other sources of information. A recently launched national program, "A Safer America," sponsored by lock maker Kwikset Corporation, distributes educational materials on security through neighborhood and crime-prevention groups. It can be contacted at 4020 Birch St., Suite 203, Newport Beach, CA 92660; (714) 851-6320.
Locks
The lock itself consists basically of a cylinder and a deadbolt that work with the other components to prevent unauthorized entry. You can mix and match, using one company's cylinder, another's deadbolt, and another company's knob or lever. In fact, several lock companies sell each other's components. Kwikset, for example, recently announced the availability of competitive cylinders for its Titan deadbolt lock line.
All of this makes changing the cylinder yourself a relatively easy operation. But make sure you get the following two important measurements right. Door thickness (usually 1d inches to 1: inches), the backset (the distance from the door edge to the middle of the knob or deadbolt). The backset will usually be 2d inches to 2: inches. Steel, brass and bronze are the best materials for strength. In terms of the cylinder itself, lock makers suggest thinking about the key as a combination that decodes the tumbler. Most locks have what is called a common pin tumbler.
You're also likely to run into the phrase "high security" applied to some brands. These include Medeco, probably the best-known in the U.S. market; Mul-T-Lock, which is gaining consumer recognition; Kaba, which at this point is aimed mostly at the commercial/business sector with some apartment use; and others like Assa and Dom. The phrase generally refers to drill and pick resistance, physical strength, and key controls. Medeco and Mul-T-Lock, for example, offer key-control programs that require a key card given to you at the time of sale in order to duplicate the key. There are usually no extra costs for the card.
Guardplates, or cylinder protectors, cover the face of the cylinder so only the keyhole is accessible. They provide yet another level of protection by preventing the thief from yanking out the cylinder. The extra cost depends largely on the material and type of the plate, but it could be anywhere from a few dollars to around $50 or $60.
Security Doors
Most burglars gain entry through the front door. But all the exterior doors on your house should get the same kind of attention when it comes to security. Take the same kind of care with back or side doors that you do with your front entry.
First, all entry doors should be solid-core, never hollow-core. Polyurethane is probably the most frequently used core material. For the skin, steel, fiberglass, wood, and the composites now available from many companies, all have different characteristics and properties. It's hard to beat wood for aesthetics, but wooden doors need maintenance; they can warp, and they may be more likely to split out if kicked. Steel has strong insulation and security advantages, but it can rust, and it can be dented and even pierced or bent. Fiberglass is a good insulator, and it also has strong impact resistance, although it can break. You can paint steel and stain and paint fiberglass.
Composites are a newer choice. Many fiberglass and composite doors take the stain so well they look like wood. Weather Shield Signature Series doors use an oak veneer, treated with a water-repellent preservative, over a polyurethane core.
The door, of course, provides more than security and the ability to close off your home from the world. It figures into your energy concerns and insulation equations, and its design is your welcome to visitors and their first glimpse into your taste and decor.
You don't necessarily have to rule out Alites@, those decorative glass inserts, to insure security. But even the most impact-resistant glass can be broken. If security is a central concern, you probably should not use Alites@ at all, or else choose a door style that has them at the top. You probably also should not have an entrance with sidelite panels anywhere near the lock unless the lock is keyed on the inside.
Pease Industries recently announced a line of Alites@ made from a higher-strength decorative glass that is laminated like the glass used in car windshields. If you do use Alites@, and especially if they're placed anywhere near the lockset, it's probably a good idea to use a double-cylinder lock, keyed inside as well as out, to keep any break-in artist from being able to turn the knob and open the door. A word of caution, check first to make sure that such a lock is permitted under your local codes. Many jurisdictions prohibit the use of these locks due to fire safety. If you do opt for this choice, make sure the key is always placed where you can reach it easily in case of an emergency.
